Salkantay Trail

People advise to stay a few days in Cuzco before attempting to hike to Machu Picchu. So I figured 3 days would be enought to get myself use to the altitude. Was I wrong!!!

On my 3rd day in Cuzco, I met Mariana (from Brazil) at breakfast. We started chatting and she mentioned she was going to visit Pisac and some ruins. I had similar plans so we paired up and took the local bus 32km weaving along the mountain roads. Explored some ruins and the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Had lunch, bartered with the local market people. I stuck my ground for a bunch of items. The lady wouldn´t budge either so I walked away. 2 minutes later she comes running up to me saying ´ok ok´! Boo yah!! I won!! Then again, I probably still got ripped off. There are always 2 prices when purchasing goods - Gringo and local. If you don´t know what gringo is, I´m sure you can find it on wikipedia.
After changing hostels, picking up my laundry, and running across the city to drop off my bag in storage, I managed to get 1.5 hrs of sleep before my tour bus picked me up at 4:20am.

Salkantay Day 1:

Picked up at 4:20am, drive around Cuzco to pick up the rest of the group. Drive 2 hours to Mollepata - a little town where we have a quick breakfast and embark on our 5 day hike to Machu Picchu. We hiked for 18km the first day, pretty much all up the mountain. Arrive at camp around 5pm. I try to eat dinner but felt sick so only squeezed down a few mouthfuls of soup. Bed by 8:30pm. WOke up at 11:45 to pouring rain and a huge puddle of water in the tent. My backpack was soaking wet! Great!! I woke up the guide and all he did was give me a cheap poncho to put under my sleeping bag. Did it work....no!!! It was a poncho! Rearranged everything in the tent and tried to get some more sleep.

Salkantay Day 2:

Wake up 5:30am. I couldn´t eat anything once again. Not good for the energy level. Going on nearly 6 hours of sleep in 2 days with no food...not good for physical activity. Today was horrible! I couldn´t walk more than 10 meters without having to stop to catch my breath. I was so close to using the oxygen tank. I asked for it once but was told to try to catch my breath first, and if I couldn´t than the O2 would be there for me to use. 4850 meters above sea level - there is not much oxygen!! Finally made it to the top of Salkantay mountain. I wanted to take pictures but decided to start the decent right away. Stopped for lunch, once again, could not eat much. The hike in the afternoon started getting better. It was all downhill!!! 20km hiking this day. Arrived in camp, beautiful spot. In a valley where you have the rainforest on one side and the highlands on the other. The downside, we were expected to dry our own sleeping bags and clothes that got wet the night before.

Salkantay Day 3:

Another 5am wake up. Got ready for the 13km hike today. I was feeling better! Had more energy and could stomach the food that was provided for us. So happy there was more oxygen in the air! Started hiking through the rainforest, such a difference from the day before. 6 hours hiking downhill, through streams, across rivers and passing waterfalls. We went from snow at the top of the mountain to the gorgeous tropical heat in the jungle.
Had lunch in a little village. There was a clinic across the street that was made of scrap metal and bamboo. 2064 meters at this point and loving the oxygen! Chickens, cows, dogs running around are all a regular sight by at this point. Bus ride down the twisting roads to Santa Teresa, where we set up camp. We stepped out of the bus and not within a minute, there were 2 monkeys climbing in and out of the bus. Across the street there was quite the site. On a concrete pad with a roof made of straw and 4 large bamboo posts, a group of Peruvians were preparing for a daily activity. A lady, who I coined ´´the lady of death´´ came strolling up the road with a bucket full of weapons. A cow was tied to the middle of the concrete pad and before you knew it, the lady of death came swooping in, putting an end to the cow´s life. 30minutes later there were fresh carvings of meat hanging all around. Unfortunately, they didn´t offer us any.

Salkantay Day 4:

5:30am wake up, really good breakfast (fresh papaya, bananas, quinoi (spelling) yogurt, pancakes and coca tea). Hiked about 8 km before lunch. We had to collect our luggage that the horses were carrying and say goodbye to our horseman. Hiked for another 2 hours or so along the railway tracks to Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu. Got a hostel for this night!!!! You don´t know how much you appreciate a hot shower until you haven´t had one for 4 days. Let´s just say I could smell my own stench.

....tomorrow - Machu Picchu!